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Awesome idea Haunted!
Thanks for doing this. I haven't tried doing a custom, I've been intimidated by it. But this guide would make it easier to try to complete one.
Thanks for being so helpful, Kudos to you for helping everyone out.
This is great! Thanks. Just had a friend who's been noticing our vinyl posts/photos on Facebook and asked if you could paint on these. We're buying him a blank on Sunday.
Would also like to know what you spray on it to finish them. if you do even.
Last edited by thestrongholdsd; 05-21-2010 at 01:55 PM.
Finally someone comes up with a thread like this! Thanks a bunch Christopher, this is awesome!
My question: How do you get the glossy/shiny effect on your candy series?
Check me out playing FANTASMIC! on the piano: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFArRivkfH4
Testors makes a great gloss.
Hey there! Thanks for directing me to this thread. I wanted to ask how you did your custom of the carbonite mickey. Did you cast it with anything and make a mold? Or did you cut it in peices and glue it?
I have a method for molds and casts that I do for my projects at school in industrial design. I guess I'll let everyone know and also see if this is similar to what you do.
Mold Making Process
First You cut out a template in cardboard to make a box. Tape it all together to make a nice 4-5 inch high box. I then line the entire box with ductape and also the outside of it with ductape to prevent any leaks.
I then use plaster of paris to create the mold by first pouring in the first player of plaster into the box, filling it halfway. After about 10-15 minutes the plaster should be hardening to a hard but still liquid texture. I then take my figure and push it into the plaster halfway. It HAS to be a basic figure with no undercuts. Think of it as, when the plaster hardens, there should be no oblong shapes coming from the figure that would not be able to come out of the plaster just by pulling it without breaking the mold. I hope that wasnt confusing.
Once the first layer of plaster Is hardened, make small holes in the corner of the mold. These are called "Keys" and allow for the second layer to fit snugly into the first when you are ready to cast. They should but small and shallow just to allow a subtle hole.
After that, take petroleum jelly and coat the entire first layer, and the top of the figure with the jelly, this will act as a release agent for the second layer of plaster to easily be removed.
Next, pour in another layer of plaster, covering the other half of the figure, and fill the second layer just up to the rim of the box.
Now wait until the second layer is completely hardened and cut open the cardboard on the corners in order to take the plaster square out.
It shouldnt be too hard to separate the layers, but if it is, slip in a butter knife in between the layers and LIGHTLY tap with a hammer in different areas until it separates.
After having the layers separated pull out the figure from the first layer of plaster, it might be tight but it will eventually come out.
You are now ready to dig out a funnel for the resin to be poured in.
Draw a line from the top of the head to the top of the cube on each peice of plaster and carve out a tunnel for resin to be able to flow into the cavity created by the figure.
Once dug out, duct tape the plaster together to form it back into its mold. Wrap around MANY MANY times over and under and every which way possible (BE CAREFUL NOT TO COVER THE HOLE FOR THE RESIN).
Once done, use polyester resin (can be found at hobby lobby) and use the directions to mix and make enough to pour into the mold.
Once the resin dries ( about an hour or so ) you are ready to un duct tape the mold and seperate it.
It comes out with junky resin on the sides but it can be removed and sanded down with a dremel tool.
I know that was long, but my sculpting professor at school showed me this technique and it is a cheap
and easy way to reproduce figures and also to add details of your own. I will post some pictures of the molds of things I have created for school.
---------- Post added at 02:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:06 PM ----------
Here is an example of a figure made with the mold technique I posted.
This is a toy I made for a project. It was a puzzle archaeology kit for kids.
Here is another shot, with the box and carving tool, along with the pieces in "stone."
This thread is such a great idea! Nice to have everything for us custom newbies all in one place
Okay, so this might be a stupid question, but I have to ask - if you would like to glue something (or somethings) on your vinylmation, what would be best thing to use? Super glue? Hot Glue? Elmer's glue?
Thanks again for making this very helpful faq!
Now how did you cast your carbonite mickey?
Thank you so much for this- it'll really help!
I have a question. I got a 9" and took the head off of the body. My question is: How do you get the head back on? Brute force?
I haven't tried it with a vinylmation yet, but with the vinyl Japanese toys I collect, you can use a blow dryer to heat the vinyl. It will soften it, and should make it easier to get the parts on/off. Try at your own risk.
So now about the arms... I was actually going to ask about that- are those too difficult to take off? Have you ever tried and is it different than taking off the head?
Wow, now I want to try to create my own vinyl too. Thanks for all the helpful tips!
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